The hard part about surfing
Surfing, the conceptual kind, is more essential than ever, it's not optional.
And the hardest part of surfing, by far, is paddling out, not surfing in.
Carrying the board, getting back into the water, paddling through the waves, waiting for the next set...it's exhausting, and surfers spend far more time doing this than they do on the other part.
Having the guts to surf is what change demands. And finding the stamina to paddle back out is a key part of surfing.
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